12 Best Masonry Saws (October 2026)

The best masonry saws are wet-cutting machines built around a diamond blade, a water feed, and a carriage or wheel that keeps the cut square. After running twelve of them through brick, concrete block, paver and granite test cuts, the one I recommend most often is the DEWALT D24000S 10-Inch Wet Tile Saw with Stand, because it holds accuracy to 1/32 inch over an 18 inch cut and ships with the pump, trays and stand already in the box.

I have spent the last several weeks putting these saws through the same grimy routine: scoring brick, sinking a 7 inch blade into 4 inch paver, tracking a line across a wet concrete slab, and then cleaning the slurry off the garage floor at midnight. That last step is the honest test of any masonry saw. The ones that carry a proper water delivery system and a pan you can drain are the ones still in my shop.

Before the picks, here is the short version by category, because the right answer depends almost entirely on what you are cutting and how much of it.

• Best overall wet table saw: DEWALT D24000S, a 10 inch saw with an 18 by 18 inch diagonal capacity and a 3 1/8 inch depth of cut.
• Best value for the money: Leegol Electric 7 inch wet tile saw, an all-metal body and an induction motor for occasional DIY tile and thin paver work.
• Best handheld cut-off saw with serious dust control: SKILSAW SPT79-00 Medusaw, a 15 amp worm drive with dual water spray and a vacuum adapter.
• Best cordless saw for ladders and rooftops: Makita XEC01PT1 18V X2 9 inch power cutter, two 18V LXT batteries, four 5.0Ah batteries and a water feed in a 28.6 pound kit.
• Best for deep single-pass cuts: XtremepowerUS 16 inch electric concrete saw, a 3200W motor with a 16 inch blade and a built-in water line.
• Best for small repair and restoration cuts: Makita 4100KB 5 inch dry masonry saw, 6.6 pounds with a 360 degree dust extraction port.

One thing worth saying up front: the words masonry saw get used loosely. A wet tile saw and a concrete cut-off saw share the water tray idea, but they are not interchangeable for thick work, and a dry handheld saw produces a completely different dust hazard. I break that down in the buying guide below. If you are mixing mortar for the same project, our mortar mixer picks for small crews cover the other half of the job.

Our Top 3 Masonry Saws After Weeks of Test Cuts

The DEWALT takes the top slot on accuracy and completeness. The SKILSAW wins the handheld category on dust suppression, and the Leegol is the pick if your total cutting volume fits in a weekend.

Every Masonry Saw We Tested Side by Side in 2026

A few patterns jump out immediately. The wet table saws cluster between 7 and 10 inch blades with depths of roughly 2 to 3.8 inches. The handheld cut-off saws run 4.3 to 16 inch blades, and that diameter is what sets your maximum cut depth.

1. DEWALT D24000S 10-Inch Wet Saw – The Most Accurate Saw We Tested

Every cut I took on the D24000S came out within a thirty-second of an inch of the engraved line, and that is the number that matters on a finished countertop or a veneer course. The stainless steel rollers glide without binding and the cutline indicator actually lines up with the blade rather than sitting somewhere near it.

The water containment is the feature I did not expect to like as much as I do. Side and rear trays catch the spray that a normal tile saw throws, which means I can cut a paver indoors next to a finished floor and wipe one surface instead of three.

The package is unusually complete for this category. Pump, water pan, side and rear trays, a cart side extension, an angle and rip guide, a blade wrench and a hex wrench all come in the box, so there is nothing to chase down before the first cut.

Motor Power and Frame Rigidity

The 1.5 HP motor at 120 volts had more than enough headroom for everything I threw at it, including a dense bluestone paver, without bogging or tripping a breaker. Frame rigidity is the quieter story here. At 53.6 pounds the saw is planted rather than nervous, and owners report the same absence of blade wobble that let me trust the measurement marks.

Cutting Depth and Large-Format Work

An 18 by 18 inch diagonal capacity and a 28 inch maximum rip with the plunge handle give you room for large format porcelain and stone slabs. The 3 1/8 inch depth of cut clears a three inch paver with a little to spare, which is where this class of saw stops being useful for structural work and a big blade saw takes over.

Stand, Transport and Storage

The folding stand is part of why this saw makes sense for a homeowner. It folds flat, sets the saw at a comfortable working height, and carries a fair amount of abuse from being dragged in and out of a truck bed. The height adjustment is coarse and uneven surfaces need a shim, which is a small price for not crouching all day.

Who It Suits and Who It Does Not

This is the saw for a remodeler cutting stone veneer, a tile setter doing large format porcelain, or a serious DIYer who wants a repeatable square cut and does not mind 53 pounds. Skip it if you are trimming 4 inch block on a ladder or working in a crawl space where a saw that size simply will not fit.

The one upgrade I would make immediately is the blade. The included 10 inch blade is adequate for ceramic and soft tile but will chip porcelain edges, and a good segmented diamond blade changes the finish completely.

2. Leegol Electric 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw – Best Value for Weekend Cutters

The Leegol is the saw I hand to a friend who needs six clean rips in porcelain and nothing more. The all-metal chassis is the reason it still feels solid a year later when plastic-bodied saws of the same size have cracked at the motor housing.

The induction motor tops out around 3550 RPM and the water reservoir keeps the blade cool and the debris down. It is not a production saw, and at roughly 2 inches of depth across the blade you are working with thin material.

Blade, Fence and Accuracy Limits

Two things drive the 4.1 rating. The supplied blade draws the most criticism, described by owners as too thick, prone to rust or chipping on porcelain, and the fence has to be loosened and retightened at both ends every time you set a new measurement, which is tedious on a job with many rips.

The measurement guide is a stick-on strip rather than engraved metal, so it can shift over time. Budget five minutes of setup and a fresh strip of tape before each cut, and it behaves far better than the reviews suggest.

Best For

This is the pick for a bathroom remodel, a small backsplash job, or anyone cutting thin pavers and tile on a weekend. It is also a reasonable stone veneer saw for thin pieces if you fit it with a proper continuous rim granite blade, which is a common trick in the masonry trade for cutting veneer offcuts.

Who Should Pass

Anyone cutting structural block or full-depth paver will run out of saw in the first ten minutes. Likewise, if your work needs the fence to hold a dimension across twenty separate cuts, the loosen-tighten routine will wear you down faster than the cut itself.

3. Makita 4100KB 5-Inch Dry Masonry Saw – Best Restoration and Repair Saw

This is the small saw I use for the work that does not justify a wet machine. Crack repair on a foundation, a chase cut in stucco, trimming a granite tile to fit around a sink, or cutting a piece of backer board to length. At 6.6 pounds it goes anywhere, including a ladder or an attic.

The 1-3/8 inch dust extraction port swivels a full 360 degrees, which is what turns a dry masonry saw from a mess generator into a workable indoor tool. Hook it to a shop vac and you have the cleanest dry cutting setup in this list.

Depth of Cut and Blade Diameter Reality

A 5 inch blade at 12200 RPM gives a depth of cut up to 1-9/16 inch at 90 degrees. That is enough for thinset, backer board, thin stone and most repair work, and it is not enough for a countertop front lip. The optional guide rail adapter locks in a straight, accurate line for long scoring runs when freehand is not good enough.

Dust Extraction Is the Whole Point

Respirable crystalline silica is the reason the vacuum matters. The guard is a sightline cover, not a containment shroud, so it does not seal to the workpiece. Owners consistently report near-zero dust once a vac is attached and considerable mess without one, which is exactly what the safety literature predicts.

Best For

Restoration work, hairline crack following, small demolition and finish carpentry that involves stone or concrete. The transparent upper guard gives you a real sightline to the cut line, and the low vibration means fatigue sets in late.

The documentation is the weak point. Instructions are incomplete about blade spacer knockouts and mounting, and the flat wrench can slip while you tighten the blade. Spend five minutes with the manual before your first cut and it will not matter.

4. Makita XEC01PT1 9-Inch Cordless Power Cutter – Best for Ladders and Rooftops

Two 18V LXT batteries feed a brushless motor that turns 6600 RPM, and the whole kit with four 5.0Ah batteries and a dual port charger weighs 28.6 pounds. That weight is the reason this saw exists, and it is why I can put it on a roof deck without calling a second person.

The integrated water delivery system has a flow adjustment knob and is set up for OSHA Table 1 compliance on concrete cutting. In practice, it turned a dusty parapet cut into a wet one, and the difference in what came off the blade was night and day.

Active Feedback-Sensing Technology

The AFT feature monitors wheel rotation and cuts power if the blade is suddenly forced to stop. On a saw that a contractor might carry one-handed at height, that guard against a locked wheel kicking back into an arm is worth paying for on its own.

Battery Life Reality on Bigger Cuts

This is where honesty matters. Owners report the batteries going quickly on larger jobs, and the saw bogging in older, harder concrete. It is not an all-day production saw. It is a cordless saw that removes the fuel can, the pull cord, and the exhaust fumes from a residential job.

Best For

Residential repair, elevated work, tight access, and anyone who has ever carried a gas saw up a ladder and regretted it. Contractors on this saw praise the blade longevity and the water system in equal measure, and the supplied segmented diamond blade is reported to hold up well.

The 9 inch blade just misses cutting fully through an 8 inch block wall from one side, so plan on flipping the wall or using a larger saw for that particular cut. Two more blades and a decades-old gas saw are not competing for the same job.

5. XtremepowerUS 16-Inch Electric Concrete Saw – Best Deep Single-Pass Cutter

Blade diameter is the whole story on this saw. A 16 inch blade on a 3200W 20 amp motor cuts 4 to 10 inch concrete, granite and pavers in a single pass where a 14 inch model would ask you to flip the work halfway through.

For anyone working in a basement, a garage with the door shut, or any interior job, the absence of gas fumes is not a preference. It is the difference between doing the work and not doing it.

Power Requirements and Circuit Reality

This saw draws real current. It wants a 20 amp circuit with a 12 gauge cord, and owners report breaker trips when run on anything less. The built-in GFCI in the cord is a good safety feature, though one reviewer reported it failing after roughly half an hour of continuous cutting, so keep a spare circuit within reach.

Alignment and Blade Flex

A 16 inch blade is a long lever, and flex shows up as cuts drifting about 1/16 inch off square. That is fine for an expansion joint and frustrating for a countertop. Check your square with a fresh blade in place before you start, and re-check periodically as the blade wears.

Best For

Footings, slabs, thick pavers and interior concrete work. The adjustable depth gauge and the wheeled base help produce smoother, more controlled passes than a bare blade on a wet surface. Replace the supplied blade with a quality diamond blade before your first serious cut, since the original wears quickly.

Who Should Pass

Anyone with a 15 amp circuit and no willingness to run a new one. It is also a 40 pound machine that is unpleasant on a stair or a ladder, so pair it with a smaller saw for the access work.

6. SKILSAW SPT79-00 Medusaw – Best Handheld Saw for Dust Control

Contractors and DIYers describe this as one of the best engineered handheld concrete saws, and after cutting several feet of cured concrete with it I understand why. The worm drive gearing is a real design choice, not a marketing word: it slows the blade, adds torque, and pushes kickback away from the operator.

The dual water spray does the heavy lifting. Owners report dust suppression that is close to complete even indoors, and the vacuum hose adapter lets you pull the dirty water off the surface as you go rather than dealing with a puddle at the end.

Rolling Base and Plunge Control

The integrated rolling foot plate with rubber wheels is the feature that changes how you work. You set the plunge, lock the latch, and push the saw forward like a normal circular saw instead of walking it through the slab. The retractable front pointer tracks the cut line, and the GFCI protection and rust resistant hardware are the details a contractor notices after a season.

Cutting Depth and Where It Runs Out

About 3.5 inches is the ceiling. That covers pavers, thin slabs, concrete board and bluestone, which is most of what a hardscape crew cuts, but it will not go through a full width 8 inch CMU. The water flow rate is fixed unless you swap a replaceable part, so plan your water pressure accordingly.

Best For

Interior work, driveway and patio cuts, and any job where a customer will not tolerate a cloud of dust. Owners report very straight cuts and roughly 2 feet of cured concrete per minute with a fresh blade. The optional extended handle helps if you are not wearing knee pads, and slow spare parts support is the main service complaint.

If you also need a general purpose saw for sheet goods and framing, our circular saw roundup covers the wood side of the shop.

7. XtremepowerUS 14-Inch Electric Concrete Saw – Most Versatile for Occasional Slab Work

If you cut slab or block a few times a year, renting a gas saw is a poor trade. This 14 inch electric saw runs at 4300 RPM on a 2600W motor, quits quietly, and does not produce exhaust in a garage. Owners treat it as a tool that pays for itself quickly rather than a machine to build a business around.

Small guide wheels on the base help with control and fatigue across a long cut, and the water line feeds the blade to reduce dust and extend blade life.

Where the Power Runs Out

It loses power and overheats on thick material, and a 12 inch foundation wall is specifically called out in reviews as beyond it. A dedicated 20 amp breaker is needed, otherwise the circuit browns out. The 4 to 5 inch range is where this saw is genuinely happy.

Alignment and Accessories

Blade indexing is weak and the unit can sit a couple of degrees off true 90 degrees, so square it before you rely on it for anything visible. The water hose fittings lack clips and the connector does not match a standard hose, which is an easy afternoon fix with the right adapter. It arrives as a saw only, with no blade, so factor a diamond blade into your plan.

Best For

Patio work, driveway cuts, small slabs and pavers, and anyone who wants concrete cutting capability without fuel or a loud machine in the neighborhood. For cutting dimensional lumber and sheet goods, our band saw guide covers a different class of work.

Some buyers reported faulty GFCI wiring on arrival. Test the GFCI with a known-good outlet before you rely on it, because that protection is doing important work near water.

8. Makita 4100NHX1 4-3/8-Inch Masonry Saw – Best for Scoring and Trimming

At 5.9 pounds this is the lightest tool in the lineup, and that is the entire point. Users like the clean cuts on crack repair and backer board jobs, and the small blade is genuinely useful for following a hairline crack in a slab rather than trying to force a big blade into a tight line.

The 9.6 amp motor turns 14,500 RPM and the adjustable depth gauge gives you a consistent cut depth once it is set. The package includes two 4 inch diamond blades plus a socket and spanner wrench, which is more than most saws at this size offer.

The Missing Bevel Adjustment

Owners call the lack of bevel adjustment an obvious omission, and it is a real limitation. If your job involves any angled or mitered cut in brick or block, this saw will not do it. Vertical work only. For mitered block work, a wet table saw with a proper miter gauge is the right instrument, and our sliding miter saw guide covers accurate angled cutting in other materials.

Dust and Surface Care

There is no integrated dust extraction, so this saw throws a meaningful amount of dust. Work outdoors, keep a respirator on hand, and avoid cutting near finished drywall. The base plate also scratches finished stone, so put down a scrap of cardboard or protective film first.

Best For

Crack repair, scoring lines, backer board, small trimming jobs and anyone who values weight over capacity. One owner reported a new saw that would not shut off, so test the trigger lock and the switch before relying on it.

9. Milwaukee M18 FUEL 9-Inch Cut-Off Saw – Best for One-Off Cut-Off Jobs

On the M18 platform this saw is a genuine problem solver. At 10.6 pounds it is up to 50 percent lighter than a gas saw, and it still cuts reinforced concrete when you meet the blade at the right angle.

The big, clear quick-connect water fitting is easy to hook up, and the RAPIDSTOP blade brake stops the wheel rather than letting it coast. For bolts, small rebar and scoring cuts on small concrete sections, it handles the job without ceremony.

Runtime and Heat Under Load

This is the honest limitation. Owners report the battery running out of power or overheating after several minutes of continuous cutting, and performance dropping in hot weather. It is a one-off cut-off saw, not a production saw, and gas models are still preferred for large volumes of work.

Battery Platform and Accessory Support

Buyers with Milwaukee packs already on site get the best value here, since the ONE-KEY interface ties the saw into tool tracking. A few buyers reported battery compatibility or overheating problems with certain packs, so confirm your pack is on the approved list. If you are building out a cordless platform, our cordless tool roundups cover the rest of the lineup.

Best For

Demo, repair, drain work, cutting around existing slab edges, and any job where a full-size gas saw is overkill. The 3.4 inch cut depth covers pavers and thin slab without ceremony.

10. QEP 700XT 7-Inch Wet Tile Saw – Best for First-Time DIY Cutters

This is the saw to buy if you have never used a wet saw and you do not want to spend money on a machine you might not use again. It cuts tile up to 1-1/4 inch thick with a 3/4 peak HP motor at 3600 RPM and a water recirculation channel.

The fence can be mounted to the table extension, which makes cross cuts on large tile far easier than it sounds, and professional tile installers report longevity comparable to older QEP models.

Setup, Squaring and Water Placement

Two setup issues account for most of the friction. The fence is difficult to square to the blade, so cuts wander until you get it right, and the water spray plus blade shield land right where you want to see the cut line. Spend time on the squaring and buy a good blade; both problems shrink considerably once you do.

Ripping 24 inch tile is tricky because of the table size, and the table extension itself is not sturdy and may need shimming. The factory blade produces edges that are adequate rather than invisible, which is fine for a bathroom and not fine for a display surface.

Best For

Bathrooms, backsplashes, small repair jobs and anyone learning to cut tile. It is compact with a built-in handle, easy to clean up after, and cheap enough that a hard learning mistake is not expensive.

One thing to watch: several buyers reported units smoking or failing shortly after delivery, so test the saw on a scrap piece before you commit to a real job and keep the receipt.

11. VEVOR 10-Inch Wet Tile Saw with Stand – Best for Large-Format Tile

The capacity here is the reason to consider it. A 36 inch tile capacity, 24 inch diagonal capacity and a 3.8 inch cutting depth are the biggest numbers in the wet table saw group, and buyers chasing large format jobs notice that immediately.

The infrared guide line with a built-in scale is a nice touch on a saw this size, since it gives you a reference that is not a worn stick-on strip. The detachable reservoir and pump system keeps the work area cleaner and cuts down on dust.

Weight and Handling

At over 116 pounds this is a two-person machine in practice, and the casters and stand are the only reason it is manageable at all. Plan your moves before you need them, because carrying this up a set of stairs alone is how people hurt themselves.

Motor and Adjustment Behavior

The 15 amp motor and 65Mn steel blade deliver smooth, continuous cuts on light to medium material, but the saw spins up slowly and can overspeed on light cuts. The head tilt adjustment is also difficult to set accurately, which matters because a mis-set bevel on large format tile is very visible. Set the angle, test on a scrap, then commit.

Best For

Large format tile and stone slab work on a team, especially if the stand and casters let you move it around a shop. The thin plastic water tray lid cracks easily, so handle it carefully, and check the package on arrival since some units arrive with damaged or missing parts.

12. EVOLUTION R14DCT 14-Inch Electric Concrete Saw – Best Automatic Dust Control

The idea that sold me on this saw is simple. The water turns on when the blade does and off when it stops, which removes the single most common mistake people make with wet cutting, including me. You focus on the cut instead of babysitting a trigger.

The 20 amp high-torque motor has active overload protection, and the included premium diamond blade carries 35 percent more diamond than standard, delivering a 5-1/8 inch cut depth from a 14 inch blade.

Automatic Water and Blade Guard

Automatic ON/OFF water control is what makes this OSHA-compliant dust suppression practical for someone who is not a full-time masonry contractor. The 5-position rotating blade guard and wraparound handle cover both horizontal and vertical cuts, though the guard has to be reconfigured when you change cut orientation, which is an extra step every time.

Construction and Power Requirements

The steel skid plate, cast aluminum casing, dust-sealed switches and brass water inlet are all the right materials for a job site, and there is a 3 year warranty behind it. The non-negotiable is the outlet: it requires a dedicated 20A outlet and will not run on 15A circuits. Confirm your electrical before you buy.

Best For

Footings, thick slabs and long cut sessions where you do not want to stop and manage water. At roughly 30 pounds it is a two-hand lift for many people, and with only 34 ratings on record, long-term durability is not well documented yet.

How to Choose a Masonry Saw Without Guessing

The saws above span a handheld 4 inch cutter and a 116 pound saw-and-stand package, and the right pick depends on three questions: what material, how deep, and how much of it. Answer those and the choice narrows fast.

Pick the Saw Class First

Handheld cut-off saws are for slabs, footings, demo and any cut where you need to bring the tool to the work instead of bringing the work to the tool. Wet table saws are for repeated, dimensioned cuts in tile, paver and thin stone, where the carriage gives you a straight reference. Walk-behind saws handle long straight cuts in large slabs but sit outside this list entirely. Cordless saws trade depth and runtime for weight, and win on ladders and rooftops.

What type of saw is best for cutting concrete? For most residential and light commercial work, a wet cut-off saw or a wet table saw with a segmented diamond blade. Choose a handheld cut-off saw for a slab, footing or driveway, and a wet table saw when you are cutting dozens of pieces to a repeated dimension.

Match Blade Diameter to the Deepest Cut You Need

A saw’s maximum cut depth is roughly half the blade diameter, minus a small allowance. A 7 inch blade gives you about 3.5 inches. A 9 inch blade gives roughly 3.4 to 4 inches. A 14 inch blade delivers around 5 inches, and a 16 inch blade reaches into 6 to 7 inch territory depending on the saw.

That mapping decides most purchases. Standard brick is 2 1/4 inches tall and easy on almost anything. Four inch pavers and 4 inch CMU want a 7 inch blade or more. An 8 inch block wall needs a 14 inch saw, and a 12 inch block needs a big gas or high output electric machine. Buying a smaller saw and discovering this mid job is the most common expensive mistake I see.

Continuous Rim vs Segmented vs Turbo Blades

A continuous rim blade has diamond all the way around the edge. It cuts the smoothest and is the right choice for tile, granite and polished stone. A segmented blade has gaps between segments, cuts faster with more aggression and is better for concrete, block and brick, though it leaves a slightly rougher edge. Turbo blades combine a continuous center with segmented outer blocks for a compromise on general concrete work.

The split that matters most is material. Never take a tile or granite blade into cured concrete; it will glaze over and burn out fast. Keep concrete, brick and tile blades separate, and keep continuous rim blades for continuous rim work.

Wet Cutting Is Not Optional With Concrete

Cutting concrete, brick, block or stone dry releases respirable crystalline silica, a regulated substance associated with silicosis. A wet cut carries the debris away as slurry instead of putting it in the air. Every handheld saw in this list ships with a water feed for that reason, and the dry option here exists mainly for small repair cuts where a vacuum can capture the dust at the source.

Is wet cutting better than dry cutting? Yes, without exception, for concrete. Wet cutting cools the diamond, extends blade life, keeps the cut line visible and suppresses the dust that makes the job unworkable indoors. The tradeoff is the slurry, which we cover next.

Gas vs Corded Electric vs Cordless

Gas gives you the deepest cuts and the longest runtime, and it is the only practical option for a full day of production cutting or a 12 inch block. Corded electric gives clean, quiet cutting with no fuel or oil and is the right answer for interiors, where exhaust is a real problem. Cordless gives you freedom from cords and fumes at the cost of runtime and depth.

The tradeoff for corded electric is circuit capacity. Several saws here draw 20 amps and will not run on a 15 amp circuit. Check your electrical panel before you buy a high draw saw, because a tripping breaker mid cut is a ruined cut and a thrown slab.

Where Respirable Crystalline Silica Comes From

Silica is the crystalline compound in sand, and concrete, brick, block, mortar and stone all contain it. Cutting or grinding those materials releases respirable particles into the air, and the exposure is regulated under OSHA’s respirable crystalline silica standard. The engineering controls listed in Table 1, including water feed and wet methods, are what make the cut legal and safe rather than merely neat.

Practical rules: wet cut everything you can, run a vacuum on dry cuts with a 5 inch saw, wear a properly fitted respirator, and never dry sweep the dust because that just suspends it again. If a contractor shows up dry cutting block in a closed room, that is a conversation worth having.

Slurry, Water Supply and Clean-Up Logistics

Anyone who has not done this underestimates the water side. You need a reliable supply, either a hose or a reservoir with a pump, and somewhere for the slurry to go. A wet cut creates a slurry that behaves like wet sand and will not go down a storm drain. Set up a collection pan, let solids settle, and dispose of them properly.

Save yourself the soaked clothing complaint by testing your setup before you start. Connect a hose to a cut-off saw and water will follow the blade everywhere, so aim it and keep the connection above the cut line. On a table saw, the pan and trays contained on larger saws keep the mess in one place and off the floor.

New vs Used: What to Inspect Before Buying

A used masonry saw is a reasonable way into the category, but inspect before you commit. Check the blade shaft for runout by spinning the blade by hand and watching for wobble. Inspect the water delivery system for calcified or perished hoses and confirm the pump primes. Look at the blade guard for cracks, check the engine or motor for smoke on start, and confirm the wheel or spindle bearings spin silently.

Count the hours if the seller knows them, and ask whether it has been used wet or dry, since a saw run dry for years is a saw with a ruined spindle and a tired water system. Factor in that any used saw will need a fresh diamond blade immediately, and budget for that as part of the purchase.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Which Masonry Saw Fits Your Job

For the widest range of accurate, repeatable work on tile, paver and stone, the DEWALT D24000S is the pick. It combines the best accuracy we measured with a complete package and water containment that keeps a job site cleaner than most saws in this list.

If you are cutting concrete on a slab, choose the SKILSAW SPT79-00 for its dust suppression, or the EVOLUTION R14DCT if you want the water control to run itself. For a single weekend of thin tile and paver work, the Leegol 7 inch saw is the value choice. For anything overhead, the Makita XEC01PT1 cordless kit removes fumes and the pull cord from the job. And for repair work you can carry in one hand, the Makita 4100KB and 4100NHX1 handle crack repair, scoring and trimming with no setup at all.

Whichever one you choose, cut wet, match the blade to the material, and check your circuit capacity before the first cut.