Modern dryers display error codes to tell you exactly what is wrong. These alphanumeric messages appear when internal sensors detect airflow problems, temperature faults, or electrical issues.
Understanding dryer error codes can save you from a service call and, more importantly, keep your home safe.
I have spent years troubleshooting appliances, and I can tell you that most error codes are not as scary as they look. In fact, roughly 60 percent of dryer error codes are caused by restricted airflow.
You can fix most airflow issues yourself in under 30 minutes. If you are also dealing with heat issues, our troubleshooting guide for dryer heating issues covers the full diagnostic process.
Ignoring these codes is a mistake. A blocked vent does not just slow drying times; it creates a genuine fire hazard because heat builds up inside the drum and ductwork.
The good news is that once you know what each code means, you can decide quickly whether to clean a lint screen, inspect the vent, or call a technician.
Dryer Error Codes Quick Reference by Brand
Here is a fast lookup table for the most common codes across major brands. Severity is labeled as Warning for safe DIY fixes or Danger for immediate stop.
| Brand | Code | Meaning | Severity |
|---|---|---|---|
| LG | d75 / d80 / d90 / d95 | Airflow restriction level | Warning |
| LG | FO | Lint filter needs cleaning | Warning |
| LG | tE1 / tE2 / tE3 | Thermistor fault | Warning |
| Samsung | Clg / Cg | Clogged lint filter or vent | Warning |
| Samsung | C80 / C8 | Exhaust blockage 80 percent | Warning |
| Samsung | C90 / C9 | Exhaust blockage 90 percent | Warning |
| Samsung | HC / hE | Heating error or overheating | Danger |
| Samsung | tS / t5 / tC | Temperature sensor error | Warning |
| Whirlpool / Maytag | AF | Restricted airflow | Warning |
| Whirlpool / Maytag | F4E3 | Restricted airflow detected | Warning |
| Whirlpool / Maytag | L2 | Low or no line voltage | Warning |
| Whirlpool / Maytag | F30 | Lint filter or airflow issue | Warning |
| GE / Frigidaire | E22 | Exhaust thermistor failure | Warning |
| GE / Frigidaire | E64 | Heating element open | Warning |
| GE / Frigidaire | EF1 | Exhaust filter clogged | Warning |
| GE / Frigidaire | E8C | Moisture sensor error | Warning |
| Bosch / Amana | E01 / E02 | Door or ventilation error | Warning |
| Bosch / Amana | EAF2 | Airflow fault | Warning |
| Speed Queen | AF | Airflow fault | Warning |
Keep this table bookmarked. The next sections break down each brand in detail.
That detail will help you fix the root cause instead of just clearing the display.
LG Dryer Error Codes Meanings and Fixes
LG dryers use the d-series codes to measure airflow restriction. The number tells you how blocked the exhaust path is.
A d75 means 75 percent blocked, d80 means 80 percent blocked, and d90 means 90 percent blocked.
These codes are serious warnings, but they are also very common.
Our team has seen dozens of cases where the d80 or d90 code returns right after cleaning the lint screen. The real culprit is usually inside the wall duct or the exterior vent cap.
In one case, a bird had built a nest in the roof vent. The dryer kept throwing d90 until the vent was fully cleared.
If you own LG laundry appliances, you may also want to check our guide on LG appliance error codes for washer issues.
Here is how to handle each LG code:
d75 / d80 / d90 / d95 – Turn off the dryer. Remove and clean the lint filter. Disconnect the vent from the back of the dryer.
Run a short test load with the vent disconnected. If the code disappears, the blockage is in the vent line, not the dryer.
Check the exterior vent flap for lint buildup, nests, or ice in winter.
FO – This is the simplest fix. Pull the lint filter out, wash it under warm water with a soft brush, and let it dry completely.
A clogged filter blocks airflow and can trigger the more serious d-series codes next.
tE1 / tE2 / tE3 – These indicate a thermistor error. The thermistor is a temperature sensor that tells the control board how hot the dryer is getting.
If it fails, the dryer may overheat or shut off early. Unplug the dryer for five minutes to reset the board.
If the code returns, the thermistor likely needs replacement.
Samsung Dryer Error Codes Explained
Samsung dryers use letters and numbers to communicate airflow and heating faults. The most common are Clg, C80, C90, and HC.
Based on forum discussions from appliance repair communities, the HC code is especially frustrating. It can appear within seconds of pressing Start.
That rapid appearance usually means the dryer is sensing extreme heat immediately. The cause is often a blocked vent.
It can also be a failed thermostat or heating element relay stuck on. If you are seeing overheating symptoms, read our guide to dryer overheating problems for a deeper walkthrough.
Clg / Cg – This means the dryer thinks the lint filter or vent is clogged. Clean the lint filter first.
If the code persists, check the vent hose for kinks or crushed sections.
C80 / C8 and C90 / C9 – These are percentage-based exhaust blockage warnings. C80 means 80 percent blocked, and C90 means 90 percent blocked.
Turn off the unit, clean the lint filter, and inspect the entire vent run from the dryer to the outside wall.
HC / hE – This is a heating error. Stop the dryer and unplug it. Check the vent path.
If the vent is clear, the issue may be a faulty thermostat or heating element. Because this involves live voltage inside the cabinet, many homeowners choose to call a technician at this stage.
tS / t5 / tC – These point to a temperature sensor fault. The sensor may be disconnected, coated with lint, or simply worn out.
Cleaning the sensor contacts with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol can sometimes resolve it.
Whirlpool and Maytag Dryer Error Codes
Whirlpool and Maytag dryers share a common control platform, so their error codes overlap. The AF code is the one we see most often in service calls.
It stands for restricted Air Flow.
AF – Clean the lint screen. Then pull the dryer away from the wall and inspect the flex hose.
Rigid metal ducting performs better than plastic or foil flex hose. Consider upgrading if you keep seeing AF.
Check the exterior vent hood for lint accumulation or a stuck damper.
F4E3 – This is the newer code for restricted airflow. The diagnostic logic is the same as AF.
The dryer has measured poor exhaust and wants you to clear the path. Check the blower wheel inside the dryer for lint buildup too.
A clogged blower wheel will trigger this code even if the vent is clean.
L2 – This means the dryer is not receiving the correct voltage. Test the outlet with a multimeter.
You should see about 240 volts across the two hot legs. If you see 120 or zero, the problem is in the house wiring or the breaker panel.
F30 – This is another lint filter or airflow warning. Some models use F30 instead of AF.
The fix is identical. Clean the filter, check the vent, and verify the exterior flap opens freely during operation.
GE and Frigidaire Dryer Error Codes
GE and Frigidaire dryers use E-series codes. The most critical ones relate to the heating element and exhaust thermistor.
E22 – This signals an exhaust thermistor failure. The thermistor sits in the exhaust path and monitors outgoing air temperature.
If it reads out of range, the control board stops the cycle. Replacement is straightforward for someone comfortable with a screwdriver and multimeter.
E64 – This means the heating element circuit is open. The element may have burned out, or a wire connector may have loosened.
Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, and visually inspect the element for breaks. If you see a gap in the coil, the element needs replacement.
EF1 – This is the exhaust filter warning. Some GE models use a secondary filter near the blower housing.
Remove it, wash it, and reinstall it dry. A clogged secondary filter restricts airflow just as much as a blocked vent.
E8C – This indicates a moisture sensor error. The metal bars inside the drum detect how damp the clothes are.
Fabric softener residue can coat these bars and cause false readings. Wipe them with a damp cloth and a little dish soap, then rinse.
Forum users report that Frigidaire stacked laundry centers sometimes throw random codes mid-cycle. In those cases, a loose wire harness behind the control panel is often the cause.
Reseating the connectors usually fixes it.
Bosch Amana and Speed Queen Dryer Error Codes
Bosch and Amana dryers tend to use simpler E-series codes. Speed Queen, popular in laundromats and residential homes, uses a slightly different set that is less documented online.
E01 / E02 – On Bosch and Amana units, these usually relate to door or ventilation issues. E01 can mean the door is not latched properly.
E02 often points to an exhaust airflow fault. Close the door firmly, clean the lint filter, and check the vent line.
AF / EAF2 – These are airflow faults. The dryer cannot move air efficiently.
Check the vent hose, the exterior hood, and the blower wheel for obstructions. On Amana models, the AF code sometimes appears after power outages.
That happens because the control board resets to a stricter airflow baseline.
Speed Queen codes – Speed Queen residential dryers use codes like AF for airflow. Other internal faults are not always published in consumer manuals.
If you see a code that is not in your user guide, the best step is to enter diagnostic mode. Speed Queen diagnostic mode usually requires pressing and holding specific temperature and start buttons together while powering on.
Your exact button sequence is in the service manual for your model.
Because Speed Queen documentation is scarce in consumer forums, many owners end up calling a technician. If you do, ask the technician to show you how to enter diagnostic mode.
That knowledge will let you check codes yourself next time.
How to Troubleshoot Common Dryer Error Codes
Most dryer error codes fall into four categories: airflow, heating, sensor, and power. Here is a step-by-step process that works for almost every brand.
Step 1: Stop the dryer and unplug it. Safety comes first.
Even if the code seems minor, working on a live appliance is not worth the risk.
Step 2: Clean the lint filter. Remove it, wash it under warm water, and scrub gently with a brush.
Let it dry completely before reinstalling. A surprising number of codes disappear after this single step.
Step 3: Inspect the vent line. Disconnect the vent hose from the dryer and shine a flashlight into the hose and the wall duct.
Look for dense lint, animal nests, or crushed sections. If you have a long vent run over 25 feet, you may need a booster fan.
Many forum users report that their d90 or AF codes keep returning. The vent run is simply too long for the dryer to overcome.
Step 4: Check the exterior vent hood. Go outside while someone runs the dryer.
The hood flap should open fully and stay open. If it barely lifts, you have a blockage downstream.
If it does not open at all, you may have a complete obstruction.
Step 5: Reset the control board. Plug the dryer back in, wait 60 seconds, and power it on.
Some codes are one-time events caused by a brief power fluctuation. If the code returns after a test cycle, you have a real problem.
Step 6: Test with the vent disconnected. Run a short timed dry cycle with the vent hose off the dryer.
If the code stays away, the dryer is fine and the vent is the problem. If the code still appears, the fault is inside the dryer.
For deeper maintenance tips, read our article on dryer maintenance and smell prevention.
Step 7: Inspect internal components. If the vent is clear and the code persists, check the blower wheel, thermistor, and heating element.
These parts are accessible by removing the back or front panel on most dryers. Refer to your model’s service manual for screw locations.
Step 8: Call a professional if you find burned wiring, a cracked element, or anything you are not comfortable replacing.
There is no shame in hiring a pro for electrical repairs.
How to Run Diagnostic Mode on Your Dryer
Diagnostic mode is a hidden service menu. It displays stored error codes and lets you test individual components.
Not every brand makes it easy to access, but the effort is worth it.
LG – With the dryer off, press and hold the More Time and Less Time buttons together. While holding them, press and hold the Power button.
Keep holding until the display shows diagnostic numbers. Release all buttons. Use the Start button to cycle through tests.
Samsung – Turn the dryer off. Press and hold the Mixed Load Bell and Temp buttons.
While holding them, press Power. The display will enter diagnostic mode. Use the dial or buttons to scroll through stored codes and sensor readings.
Whirlpool / Maytag – Press any three buttons in sequence three times within eight seconds. A common pattern is 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3.
The display will show all stored codes. Press the same buttons to exit.
GE – With the dryer off, press and hold the Start and Temp buttons. While holding, press Power.
The display will enter service mode. Follow the on-screen prompts or button labels to read codes.
Diagnostic mode will show you the last several errors, not just the current one. That history can reveal whether the problem is intermittent or constant.
If you see a repeating pattern, you have a solid clue about the root cause.
When to Call a Professional for Dryer Error Codes
Some dryer error codes point to problems that require training and tools to fix safely. Here is when to pick up the phone instead of the screwdriver.
Call a technician if you see repeated HC or hE overheating codes after the vent is completely clean. Internal overheating with clear airflow often means a stuck relay on the control board.
It can also mean a failed thermostat. Both involve live 240-volt circuits inside the cabinet.
Call a technician if you smell burning or see scorch marks. That is not a maintenance issue.
It is a fire risk. Unplug the dryer and do not use it again until it is inspected.
Call a technician if you are not comfortable working with a multimeter. Replacing a thermistor, thermostat, or heating element requires testing resistance and continuity.
If those terms are unfamiliar, hire someone who does this daily.
As a rough guide, sensor replacements usually cost between 120 and 200 dollars including labor. Heating element replacements range from 150 to 300 dollars.
Control board failures are the most expensive, often running 300 to 500 dollars. If your dryer is over ten years old and the repair quote is over half the cost of a new unit, replacement may be the smarter choice.
Frequently Asked Questions About Dryer Error Codes
Is a D90 code a serious problem for my LG dryer?
A D90 code means your dryer detects 90 percent airflow blockage. It is a serious warning because restricted airflow causes heat buildup and increases fire risk. Stop the dryer, clean the lint filter, and inspect the entire vent line. If the vent is clear and the code returns, the blockage may be inside the ductwork or the blower wheel.
Why is my dryer saying error?
Dryers display error codes when internal sensors detect abnormal conditions. The most common causes are restricted airflow, lint filter clogs, temperature sensor faults, power issues, or heating element failures. The specific code tells you which system needs attention.
How much to repair a dryer sensor?
Repairing a dryer sensor typically costs between 120 and 200 dollars, including parts and labor. The thermistor or moisture sensor itself is usually 15 to 40 dollars, but the bulk of the cost is labor for disassembly and testing.
How do I tell if my dryer has a blown thermal fuse?
A blown thermal fuse usually stops the dryer from heating completely while the drum still spins. You can test the fuse with a multimeter set to continuity. Remove the back panel, locate the fuse near the blower housing or heating element, and touch the probes to its terminals. No continuity means the fuse is blown and must be replaced.
How do I run a diagnostic test on my dryer?
The method varies by brand. On LG, hold More Time and Less Time while pressing Power. On Samsung, hold Mixed Load Bell and Temp while pressing Power. On Whirlpool, press any three buttons in sequence three times within eight seconds. On GE, hold Start and Temp while pressing Power. Diagnostic mode displays stored codes and lets you test components.
What are the error codes on an LG dryer?
Common LG dryer error codes include d75, d80, d90, and d95 for airflow restriction levels; FO for a dirty lint filter; and tE1, tE2, tE3 for thermistor faults. Each code points to a specific subsystem so you can target your troubleshooting.
What does p5 mean on a LG dryer?
P5 on an LG dryer usually indicates a problem with the inverter motor or motor control board. It means the motor is not responding correctly to commands from the main board. Unplug the dryer for five minutes to reset. If P5 returns, the motor or inverter board may need replacement.
How do I reset or clear a dryer error code?
Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and wait at least five minutes. Plug it back in and power it on. This resets the control board and clears many temporary codes. If the code returns during the next cycle, the underlying issue is still present and needs repair.
Dryer Error Codes
Dryer error codes are not random. They are precise signals from your appliance telling you where to look first.
In 2026, the most common codes still revolve around airflow, heating, and sensors. If you take one thing from this guide, let it be this: always check the vent and lint filter before assuming a major failure.
Start with the quick reference table, move to your brand section, and follow the troubleshooting steps in order. Most homeowners can clear a d90, AF, or Clg code in under 30 minutes.
You only need a vacuum and a flashlight. For the deeper electrical faults, know when to call a technician and what the repair will likely cost.
Your dryer is trying to help you. Listen to the code, fix the root cause, and you will extend the life of the machine while keeping your home safe.
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